Guided tour (duration: 2 hours)

1. Departure from: Place des Terreaux
   • The confluence of the two rivers Rhône and Saône in the Roman Age was formerly in this location. The city of Lyon was located on the other side of the Saône, where you can actually see the Old City of Lyon and here at the Place des Terreaux existed a village named Condate.
   • Admire the Bartholdi Fountain, which originally had been ordered by the town of Bordeaux from the sculptor of the statue of liberty in New York. Finally, it ended in Lyon in front of the town hall. Michel Noir (former mayor of the town in the 90’s) had it moved to the middle of the square, right in front of the art museum, like an answer to the fountain in the courtyard of the art museum, which you can see when the door is open.
   • You will see this courtyard of the art museum at the end of this visit, when you can rest and enjoy the silence of this place in the heart of Lyon.

Agrandir le plan

2. Direct yourself to the rue Sainte-Marie des Terreaux next to the pharmacy along the Doner Khebabs, very typical of this district. Cross the rue Sainte-Catherine, the road of night bars.
3. Now you go up the stairs to a small square. You will arrive in front of one of the stairways, very typical of the Croix-Rousse and the „Traboule”. Don’t cross the square, instead turn immediately to your right.
4. You will come to a courtyard, one of the few which had been renovated and which looks like an Italian courtyard due to its shady trees. At certain times of the day, you will experience beautiful sunrays here. You then exit the courtyard on the opposite side and arrive at Rue des Capucins where you turn left. Go straight to the traffic lights, cross the road and continue through Rue Sergent Blandan till you get to the square Place Sathonay.
   

   One of the two lions at Place Sathonay (the ducks are extras)

5. One of the two lions at Place Sathonay (the ducks are extras)
6. Place Sathonay is one of the most beautiful places in Lyon, just like  the Place Colbert and the Place des Célestins,  which is in a different style. During the whole year, especially in a summer, this place is very vibrant. It extends to the big stairwell, which leads to the Jardin des Plantes and the roman amphitheatre Les Trois Gaules. In the middle of the square you will see a statue of the Sergent Blandan, killed in Algeria during the colonial wars and you can read on the feet of the statue what he said to his companions as a testimony for his braveness. At the end of the square, on the left of the stairway, you can see the mayor’s office of the first district of Lyon. Formerly plants were brought up here and then transferred to the Jardin des Plantes, before they could strike roots in the park Tête d’Or which had been devastated by two consecutive storms. At the bottom of the stairways, you can see two lions, which were founded in the town of Le Creusot,  spewing two elegant jets of water. You can rest on the terrace of the Café de la Mairie and eventually observe some people refreshing themselves at these waterspouts.
7. Speaking of refreshment, at Place Sathonay you will probably find the best tasting ice cream of Lyon in the ice cream bar: Les Enfants Gâtés– to spoil the kids, it is recommended!
8. We are now leaving Place Sathonay and going to Rue Poivre next to the police station. At the end of this road there are stairs again, go up and arrive at Rue Terme. Do be very careful when you cross this road! You go to N°7 und push the doorknob. The entrance should open and you can enter the first „Traboule”.
9. Warning: very bad smell of urine… Look at the steps of the stair battered by the numerous passages of visitors; in the middle of the „Traboule”, behind a grid, you can see an open staircase, as there are in so many houses in Lyon. You exit Montée de la Grande Côte (ascension of the big hill).
10. This ascension was created during the last years and is splendid, especially when the sun lights up the different tones of ochre on the houses facade. Various businesses have settled down here: art and craft ware, alternative libraries, cosy bars. You will be in no doubt: you are on the hills of Croix-Rousse.
11. Walk down a few meters to N°95 and you find yourself in front of the house of the first French cooperative of workers. It was based on the socialist ideas of Charles Fourier. The aim was to mitigate against the extreme difficult conditions of life of the workers by supplying them food at cost prices. This cooperative, called “the true and social trade”, was very important at that time. A plate on the front of the house tells the names of the founders.
12. Let’s say a few words about life in this district, where most of the “canuts” (silk weavers) were established. Thousands of silk weavers worked in their master’s houses, who had installed the looms in their private rooms. The looms were also called “bistanclaque” which is an echoism of the loom’s noise. The apartments had very high ceilings because of the size of the looms. Nowadays these apartments are used for private use and include most of the time mezzanines. You can recognize the houses of the former rich habitants of this district by the monials at the windows.
13. Now take your time and walk up the Montée de la Grande Côte, enjoy the beautiful facades of the houses, especially in the sunshine.
14. You are now Rue Burdeau, a few meters left and you arrive at…
15. the amphitheatre Les Trois Gaules, where there is a wealth of information to digest:
    • You can find a lot of information on Wikipedia, especially about the religious and political context of this site, as well as the wild story of Blandine, who was executed here for her religious convictions.
    • There will be some subsequent changes in this area during the coming years: the ugly building above the amphitheatre, which is the art academy, will be torn down, important archaeological excavations will most certainly take place. There are also plans for a green aisle prolonging the Jardin des Plantes, where the plants were cultivated for later transfer to the Park Tête d’Or.
    • Each 1st August, the representatives of the 60 nations of the three Gallic empires met in this amphitheatre. They presented their grievances, which were passed on to Rome and Rome showed its authority, especially through the religious cult, which was devoted to it. Feasts, poetical competitions, sacrifices, all took place on this site.
16. Now you walk up the stairs on the right hand of the theatre. Under your feet you will notice the car tunnel which leads up to the Croix-Rousse. The actual city council had promised to install a system, which would transport bikes from the bottom of the hill to the top. But due to the economical crisis, it doesn’t seem probable.
17. You now walk along an elementary and nursery school. A pleasure to study there!
18. You arrive Rue des Tables Claudienne and turn to your right. Walk until Montée de la Grande Côte, which leads you to the top of the hill. Be mindful, there are several streets to cross. Enjoy the nice facades and art shops.
19. After the arduous stairs through the gardens of the hill, you will come to one of the most beautiful lookouts of Lyon. This square, which is nameless, is the cross point of the Rue des Pierres Plantées and the Rue du Bon Pasteur. You can rest here for a while and enjoy the view either from the railing above some beautiful wisteria, or from the terrace of the restaurant Montana, where you can sample some delicious tajines.  When the weather permits, you may catch good sights of the river Saône and the Old City of Lyon.
20. Now turn to the other side of the Croix-Rousse in direction of the river Rhône to catch a beautiful sight as well of the Park Tête d’Or. We are now going to start the second part of our tour.
21. Our next visiting point is the Gros Caillou (Huge Stone). To reach there, we have to walk up the Rue des Pierres Plantées to the plateau of the Croix-Rousse. The square, the boulevard, the underground stop, all have the same name “..”de la Croix-Rousse. On your left hand side, although we are proceeding to the right, are the well-known daily market, the Café “Le Chantecler” and the mayor’s office of the fourth district where the worker revolts of 1831 and 1834 are displayed on a plaque. However, we will go over it later.
22. As we said, we continue to the right to the new esplanade “Le Gros Caillou”, which was created on the occasion of the construction of a new underground parking (which proves, that it is possible to mix business with pleasure). So, what is the Gros Caillou all about? Well, it means what it says: A huge stone. The local guides like to explain its origins by glaciers. Actually, we do not have any precise information about it.  This big stone installed previously at the end of the boulevard and completely tagged with graffiti, has become an entire part of the esplanade after its restoration. There are nice cafés with terraces where you have a beautiful sight of the city of Lyon and a bit further to the Alps.
23. At the end of the esplanade, you go down the stairways, cross the Rue Mottet de Gérando and arrive at the square Place Bellevue.This is the second lookout of this tour. A large view on the river Rhône, the bridge Pont de Lattre just beyond the tunnel of Croix-Rousse; you will notice banks, some which are modernized and those who kept their original features and character; the sixth district; Villeurbanne and its high rises; more to the left, the park Tête d’Or and its island. Take some time to be captured by this sumptuous view.
24. We now get to the square Place Colbert, which is as adorable as the Place Sathonay. It is quite a feeling to sit down here in hot weather and enjoy a fresh drink! Underneath this square you will find…
25. the „Traboule” “des Voraces” which is the most representative of Croix-Rousse:
    • The „Traboule” “des Voraces” is an epicentre of the “canut”- culture, their revolts in the 19th cent., the architecture and the daily life of the youngsters (“les gones” – a typical expression from Lyon) during this time. Just imagine yourself during the time of silk manufactures: No tourists, but only workers and children, whose favourite game amongst others was to stroll down the stairs, which you see in front of you.
    • In this courtyard a society of silk workers held his secret meetings after the first revolt in 1831 and was surnamed the voracious (“les voraces”). The same name was given to this courtyard and the „Traboule”.
    • The revolts of the silk workers in 1831, 1834, 1848 and 1849 claimed hundreds of lives (in 1834 there were 600 dead) and had important repercussions. They are considered the trigger for the workers consciousness that they had to fight against their exploitation. History left traces in this district until today, numerous alternative organizations and businesses are located here.
26. You now go down the „Traboule”, keeping to your right hand, you cross the Rue Imbert Colomès and enter the „Traboule” just in front. We are now at Rue des Tables Claudienne. Turn to your right in direction to the Place Chardonnet and walk down until the Rue Pouteau. You then step down the stairways on the right side of the church.
27. Here, is Passage Thiaffait, a place where a new generation of fashion designers and stylists has settled down. It is also a favourite meeting point during the celebrations in the city (festival of lights, music festival etc.).
28. You now have two possibilities: you either go right and enter a „Traboule” at N°6 Rue René Leynaud, which will lead you to the Rue des Capucins, where you will turn left.
29. Or, turn left and go down the Rue Saint Polycarpe and move left again.
30. Keep going until Place Croix Paquet and walk into the Rue du Griffon, take your immediate left. You will arrive at Place du Griffon, where you can admire a staircase between two buildings. Now continue to the left backend of the square and join the road again. To your right handside you can see the Impasse de Thou, a dead end.
31. This dead end has recently been renovated. On the right hand side, you find a small gate, which can be opened.
32. Now you are in front of an extraordinary staircase: classic style, square cut and 22m high! A sight not to be missed.
33. Go up a few steps, then enter the „Traboule” to your left, which takes you to the Petite Rue des Feuillants. Continue on this road till you arrive at the square Place Tolozan next to the river Rhône. From there you go to the big square in front of the opera of Lyon, a favourite place for hip-hoppers. You will notice how amazing they are!
34. We complete our tour here, back at Place des Terreaux, where we started.

Now it is up to you to weave your own net of places of visit in this stronghold of silk manufacturers.

Enjoy yourself,

Gilles for Lyon-visite.info and Monika for translation.